þriðjudagur, mars 25, 2008

homecoming

Here is a little intermission in the travel story just to let you know that we are still alive and coming home shortly. We are no back in Cape Town and will arrive in Glasgow on the 29.March and in Iceland on the 6.April. I know that some of you have been waiting for a continuation of the travel story and it will come just be patient.
Well off we go now for some wine tasting. :)
Take care and see you soon,

Jon & Kathleen

laugardagur, mars 15, 2008

Etosha National Park

As we arrived to Etosha National Park we started our first Game drive. Amongst the animals we saw were Giraffes, Springbok, Gemsbok, and Orix. It was a short drive up to tha camping place that was situated right next to a watering hole where the animals would come to drink. Unfortunately for us it was the beginning of the rainyseason so there were a lot of watering holes elsewere so the animals did not have to come there. At the hole we only saw springbok and some jackals. We even took turns being on shift that night but not much happend. The next day however, things began to happen. Just after leaving the camp grounds we sighted our first lions.
At first we saw three quite far but then we saw a male and a female walking towards the truck and then crossing the road about 5 meters in front of the truck. Quite a sight to see lions in the wild I can tell you. The lions even had a short "romantic moment" practically in front of the truck or "confortable times" as they call it over here;). That day we also saw Zebras, gemsbok, springbok, wilderbeast, Orix, giraffs, ground squirrels, and vultures. The highpoint of the day came though when Brian yelled: "Look! an Elephant!". this was the moment everybody had been waiting for and it was all that we thought it would be. What an amazing animal. we first saw just one but then another a bit closer. We would see lodes of elefants at close range later on in the. but the first time is just incredible.

föstudagur, mars 14, 2008

Swakopmund to Spitzkoppe

After seeing flamingos and picking rubies in the sand (I found a couple of small ones but you would almost need a magnifying glass to see them) in Walvis Bay we arrived in Swakopmund. A very German town. This is where many people decided do some activities like: Skydiving, Quad biking, sand boarding, see fishing, and so on and so on. Me and Kathleen decided to relax, shop a little and one morning I went for a game of golf with Oliver while Kathleen was busy with one of her favorite activity, which is to read a book on the beach. We had a great time. The golf course was in the middle of the dessert but still green because off irrigation from a nearby river. We were told that some Springbok might be grazing on the golf course but did not expect herds of them more or less ignoring us playing through, only a couple of meters away. Oliver almost hit one once which apparently is not a rare thing to happen on that golf course.
Swakopmund was a small but very likable town and one where I would not have minded staying a couple of extra days. Maybe it was partly because we got to stay at a very nice hostel which was a welcoming break from the tents but also because the town had a nice feel to it.

Leaving the town after 2 nights, we headed to a place called Spitzkoppe, where beautiful rock formations make the landscape (you might have a picture from there on your example wallpaper on your computer. On the way there we stopped briefly at a seal colony. It was very nice to see all the hundreds of thousands of seals but to the same extend not very nice to smell them. uuugggh! As we settled at Spitzkoppe some of us went on a bush walk. I passed on the walk because it was just too hot. We are talking, "can't even think" hot. After the others came back we mosied on to the Bush bar, and finished their stock of beer and sodas which wasn't that big to begin with. We walk back to the camp and saw the sunset over the rocky hills. Reminded me a bit of The Olgas in Australia. As we had dinner, Letitia asked us to fill our plates and then follow her. Then she walked up to the rock face and disappeared behind a tree making it appear as she just walked into the rock. When we followed we discovered a huge cave that had a hole up to the sky where Hermann had all ready made a fire. It was one of the coolest places I have ever dined at, and we even had roasted marshmallows : Pure magic. :) I love Namibia.
Next: Brian spots the first elephant

Photos:
top: A Namibian Springbok
bottom: An areal view of Spitzkoppe (click to enlarge)

laugardagur, febrúar 16, 2008

In a Big Country

The name Namibia comes from the word Namib meaning vast. The country used to be under german rule and was called South West Africa until its independence 1990. A small part of it called Walvis Bay, was under British control untill 1994. Apart from the landscape things are still very german. Talking about landscape, our first stop came about 3 hours after crossing the border. Fish River Canyon is the oldest and second biggest canyon in the world and very impressive. We had a walk along the canyon and then had a sunset dinner right next to the edge as we also observed huge lighning storm in the distance. It was interesting how we were the only people there apart from one or two others. Not very touristy at all. We were already beginning to observe some wildlife, mostly springbok but the next day after a long drive and just before reaching our destination we got a pleasant surprise. It was an unscheduled stop at a cheetah park. where we saw Cheetahs, leopards and a Caracal It was a big moment for all of us to go into the cheetah's enclosure and stand less than 10 meters from it. With the leopard we had to stand outside the fence. When we thought the tour was over we were led into another enclosure where 4 young cheetahs were. They were extremely tame and came up to us to be petted. That was the highlight of the trip so far for me. Not everyday you get to scratch a cheetah behind the ear or let it lick your hand. After this great and unexpected experience we headed on to Sesriem were we saw a small canyon made by flood water just on the edge of the oldest desert in the world: The Namib Desert. Close by we pitched out tents. We had a beautiful view that night over the savanna at sunset and we saw animals like antelopes, springboks and baboons. And the next morning a snake.
The next morning, if we were not fully awake yet, we had an abrupt awakening as a snake slithered from under our tent as we were packing it together. It was not very big maybe 60 cm.
Our driver Herman did not know this perticular snake but found out later that day. It was a Shield nose snake. It is very poisonous and two deadly incidents have been recorded. It was an early morning (still dark) as we had to make it to Dune 45 before sunrise. We scrambled up the dune and sat at the top looking at the sunrise. It was fantastic. Some more adventurous people of our group decided to roll down the dune and one had taken a tent mat with him to slide down, but as it turned out it hardly moved and he had to push himself all the way. I ran down the last bit and it is not far from the sensation you get as you run down loose snow. After this we went on a guided desert walk. To everybody's surprice our guide was a japanese woman. But she had been there for 11 years and knew almost everything there was to know about it. She ran everywhere and showed us spiders tracks bushmans food and took us to Deadvlei a dried up lake bed where there had been a huge lake as a result of flooding that happened a long time ago. It is still happening every 5th year or so but now the water goes elsewhere (Sossuvlei). It was interesting and entertaining at the same time. That evening we camped in a bushcamp at some very nice rock formations where there was only one toilet and nothing else (except of course snakes and spiders and scorpions and hyenas and....good night;).
Next: Swakopmund
Photos:
top: Fish River Canyon
middle: Cheetah & Me
Bottom: Dune 45



fimmtudagur, febrúar 14, 2008

Leaving Cape Town. Destination Namibia

Before leaving Capetown we did a Township tour. Townships were created as living areas for non-whites under the old political system of Apartheid (1948-1994). We started by going to the Apartheid museum that was placed on the street that parted the white area and another non-white area that was compleatly evacuated by the government and then levelled to the ground. Literally, bulldozed until nothing was left. This museum is full of artifacts from that area and it is scary to think that this system was fully funcional until 1994. In a kind of historical museum you expect to see something that happend centuries ago, but all this was really happening less than 15 years ago. The township tour was for me a bit surreal, a part of me thought: Are we really walking through these people's houses? Well off tourists walking through a neighbourhood of people from the very poor to the extremely poor. In some cases 12 people sharing one small bedroom. I normally don't consider myself as financially rich man but there I was. I felt like I wanted to help them and give them some money but where to start? A daunting task indeed. Another part of me thought: It is good for people to see with their own eyes what it was like and still is; and a real eye opener it is. The government is trying to help these people and it is working, but it is a slow and arduous task.
After lunch we hopped on board our "home" for the next 6 weeks and drove off.
The first stop was a campside called the Highlander. There we had a delicious meal followed by some great and plentiful wine tasting.
The next day we drove to the Namibian border where we stopped at a cool campsite with Namibia on the other side of a river. We went for a cool down dip in the river but were told not to swim too far because: "if the crocodiles don't get you, the Namibian border guards on the other side will". I was never sure if that was a joke or a real threat! These first two days were very hard for me because of the heat and therefore it was not comforting to hear when I asked Letitia, our guide, the next morning if this heat would continue and she said: "it will get much hotter". However, I found my self adjusting to the heat in the next couple of days and just as well as it was about to get REALLY hot.
Next: In a big Country

miðvikudagur, febrúar 13, 2008

Arriving in Cape Town

After a night in London we were back on a plane to Cape Town, in South Africa (14 hours). It was a bit weird to come out off the plane and realise that we were really in Africa. My first time. I had once taken a daytrip to Marocco but that doesn't really count does it. There was a guy from the hostel there to meet us and after about an hour of waiting for some other guys we drove on to the city. We stayed in Cape Town Backpackers. A nice and very friendly place.
We had 3 days in Cape Town before heading of on our Overland trip, and it was mostly spent doing last minute preparations and just resting after the long trip from Argentina. We also had a nice walk around the city and a beautiful city it is. It is already on my top 10 lists of favorit cities. The waterfront, the center and the beautiful Table Top Mountain. We were planing to take the famous cable car to the top but did not have time in the end. We also heard stories about people getting stuck in the cable car and on the top of the mountain overnight because of elecetricity shortcuts. Aparently their electricity powerplant is long overdue an overhaul so there are frequent powercuts. I had an interesting encounter one day with the laundery lady as she had to tell me all about the corrupt polititians and the electricity scandal. Cape Town will have to shape up pretty fast if they are to cope with the World Cup that is to be held there in 2010 and many think that they can not do it. Anyway, after the laundry lady let my go we went for a nice lunch at the waterfront, watching seagulls steal fries from neighbouring tables. We will have time to explore more of Cape Town as we come back there at the end of our honeymoon. So we can leave cape town looking forward to out next encounter.
Next: Leaving Cape Town. Destination Namibia
Photo:
Cape Town waterfront with Table Top Mountain in the background

þriðjudagur, febrúar 05, 2008

Farewell South-America :( ....hello South-Africa :)|

Buenos Aires was great as always. We stayed there only one night this time but had almost 2 days to walk around the city center and docks that now have changed their original purpose into restaurants bars and cafes; and we finally had to time to go to a Tango show:).
We went there about 6pm and had an hour long tango lesson before the dinner and the show.
I must say I was impressed. The moves, the precision, the grace...it was a perrfect show. It was also more than just dancing. There was also some acting involved and at one point I got to show off my steps as one of the women asked me for a short spin. None of the men asked Kathleen to dance so I conclude that I must be more good looking. he he. ;) . This was also our last night in Argentina so we had a big steak and I had a lot of Quilmes that is my favorite beer in the world.
Anyway, that was it for South-America for now. We will probably be there again someday. But now we had to get on a plane to be off to our African Adventure. First stop: Cape Town, South-Africa

Cafayate & Salta

Cafayate is a small town to the north, between Mendoza and Salta. There we had some more wine tasting. and did a half day trekking in the mountains. We basically followed the river up to a waterfall. We had to cross the river about 15 times and it meant that some places we had to get wet. In the beginning I managed to stay more or less dry by jumping from stone but soon I found out it was pointless and just walked across the river in my shoes. Our guide was about 70 years old and was running up and down steep hills and treachous terrain with big cacti like a mountain goat. The waterfall was nice and the brave people had a dip in the freezing cold water. Then we walked the same way back. At the end of the trail there were lots of bushes that have been burned, and we asked why. "to kill the tarantulas" was the answer.
Off we then went to Salta. Stayed at a nice hostel and did a nice daytrip to the Salt Flats (See photo - can you see who is on my head?).The salt flats are in the so called alti plano and the highest point we drove to get there was about 4100m. we drove allmost parallel to the railwayline of the "Train to the Clouds" a famous train ride thru a spectacular terrain. The train itself has not been working for three years because of little or no maintainance due to no funding.
But it is due to start again in April this year. It was on my top five list to do in South America (the other four were wine related;) so I was a bit dissapointed. Anyway, Salta is a nice city and the last day we took a cable car up to a top of a hill and then walked back. Nice view but the steps were over 1500 so we were quite tired as we got to the bus station to take the night train to Buenos Aires.



Next: Farewell South America :( ....hello South Africa :)

föstudagur, janúar 25, 2008

Mendoza - traffic, trekking, and tasting (Part II)




The next day was reserved for wine tasting.
Since first I came to Argentina two years ago I have had a special relationship with Mendoza wines and with a good Argentinian beef, it is pure heaven.
We started out by going to Cavas de Don Arturo a small family run winery that only exports their wine to one place in the US and then sells locally. Of course it was excellent and we were hungry for more.
The next stop was another family-run winery, but this time it was a huge one that exports wine all over the world (unfortunately not to Iceland though). It was the Familia Zuccardi. This was our favorite family in Mendoza. :) They not only produce most of the grapes that can possibly be grown in Argentina, many of which we have never heard of but also experiment with other grapes and mixtures of wines. Their main grape (as in the rest of the Mendoza region) is the Malbec that seems to grow here even better than in it's home country, France. It was a huge place and a beautiful, and tasty experience. We got a couple of bottles from their store and they were put to good use the next few days :).
The day after it was time to do some serious trekking and "tumbling" off cliffs. It took about an hour to arrive at the abseiling place and then we trekked up and down the mountain in roasting heat for about 1 and a half hours until we got to the abseiling site. For you who do not know whar abseiling is, it is when you for some strange reason lower yourself on a rope down a vertical cliff face (see photo). We did three of them. The first was 15 meters, the second was 9 meters and last one was 45 meters. An absolute killer and not for the faint of heart. (or people who tend to faint often). After every body got down we had lunch and chilled in the hotsprings near by; which was great after being in the relentless sun for 5 hours with absolutely no chance of shade anywhere.
It was a tired but happy group that came back to Mendoza that night.
The last day we strolled in a huge Park with a lake and loads of activities for the public like golf, tennis, sailing; with restaurants and cafes, football stadium, a zoo, and a campground. Mendoza is a very nice city and I am sure we will be back some day. :)
Photos.
top: winetasting in Mendoza
middle: Abseiling in Mendoza
bottom: the hot springs

Mendoza - traffic, trekking, and tasting (Part I)

The ride to Mendoza was quite spectacular. We drove through the Andes, sometimes along sheer cliff faces making me wish i had not picked the window seat. We spent a ridiculous amount of time at the border (almost 4 hours). Argentinians and Chileans (especially the Argentinians) are known for their lack of stress sometimes bordering (pun intended) on the absurd. So even with 10 full buses, trucks and a plethora of private cars there are only 4 guys to take care of everything that is 4 on the chilean side and 2 on the Argentinian). there were maybe 10-15 gates but only 4 are active for some reason. So when you get through the Chilean side you have to wait in another line on the Argentinian side. And there they are leisurely drinking their Mate chatting with the bus drivers and greeting an occasional relative that comes by while everyone in the cue is going absolutely mental. It is funny, however, how this is completely turned on it's head when you put an Argentinian in a car. Then it is his turn to go mental. They drive like lunatics, they never stop or even slow down when you are trying to cross the road, in fact I am convinced that they speed up, thinking that they probably will make it past you before you step in front of the car. In many cross roads in big cities and towns there are no traffic lights. And I once asked a guy in Salta how it worked and he replied: "Well it works like everywhere else" (might have been just referring to everywhere in Argentina), "sometimes it is the car that comes first to the intersection or sometimes it is the bigger car that has the right away". This makes it a considerable challenge every time you want to cross a road because you have no idea...and even if their are traffic lights there is no way of telling if the cars or the pedestrians have the right away. In Cordoba I was almost run over by a mad taxi driver (well they are all mad actually) that came around a corner never even touching the breaks as I jumped one meter in the air and two meters back to avoid him. It was the first time I gave someone the finger in Argentina, as I shouted "Stupido" at the top of my lungs. Chileans are much more civilized and stop frequently and even gesture politely for you to cross.
In the Mendoza bus station we were greeted by an elderly gentleman who wanted to offer us accommodation. We had not booked, so that suited us fine. Sometimes you can be lucky and get a good price at the bus station because they are desperate for some business and sometimes (as in this case) it might actually be a decent place. We got a hotel room (2 star) for 90 pesos (US$30 or about 1800 Isk.), It was so good that we decided to stay for 5 nights. And breakfast was included. Argentinian breakfast consists normally of a cup of coffee, two small peaces of toasts w/marmalade, or medialunas(croissants) and if you were lucky, orange juice. There, we had all this + a danish and a refill of everything if you wanted. The reason why Argentinian breakfast is so small is the fact that they eat very late. We are used to have dinner between 6pm and 8pm but they hardly ever have dinner before 9pm. Some restaurants don't even open until 9pm. but then they are open until about 1am.

The first whole day in Mendoza I went on a day trip to the Alta Montana or high mountain. Where they drive you to see well high mountain stuff such as Aconcagua 6962 meters, which is the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas. We drove up to altitude of 4300 and as it was not enough for me I practically ran 500 m more up to 4800 meters. For some reason the altitude seamed to have little or no effect on me in this trip. And people were looking at me funny and asking "did u just go up there and back in 10 minutes!?" like it was something they would never have considered doing in a million years. At the top u actually stood on the borders between Chile and Argentina and there was a big statue of Christ to commemorate the friendship between the two nations. It was almost weired because normally the two nations do not communicate unless absolutely necessary. It has something to do with the Falklands war where Chile supported the UK by allowing them to use their airports for their fighter jets. The drive up and down was harrowing the road was narrow breaking up in parts and the guide was busy telling us stories about other buses that had gone of the road or were hit by falling rock...at one time as we came to a massive boulder almost on the middle of the road she said: "wow! that wasn't here yesterday!!" After that we then headed to the Puente del Inca, a natural arch that forms a bridge over the Vacas River, which runs into the Mendoza River. After a late lunch we drove back home.
Kathleen had used the day to do some shopping (she did not do the tour because she did it 2 years earlier), and we ended that day by going to a Tenedor libre (a free fork) which is a buffet place with basically everything you heart desires for a very resonable price.

Photos.
Top: Aconcagua 6962 m
Middle: High in Argentina looking over into Chile
Bottom: Puente del Inca (the Inca Bridge)

fimmtudagur, janúar 24, 2008

The Big Bangs - New year, Vina Del Mar, Chile

Vina Del Mar had two main purposes for us. One: to celebrate New Year and two: go to Valparaiso which is basically next door (10 min on the metro train) . We came there early morning and our hostel, that looked good on the internet was a total dump. There was nothing in the room except the bed and a small TV. It was right next to a busy street and you could not close the windows properly. There were two shared bathrooms & showers for about 25 people and the showers only worked occasionally. So we dumped our bags (no pun intended) and hit the town in search of another place to stay. It took awhile as it was New Year and most places were packed and/or overpriced because of the New Year. Finally however we found a 1 star hotel with private bath and breakfast included for almost the same price as Hostal TotalDump. We moved early the next morning. Not only was it much better but also very central to everything. That same day: 31st of december 2007 we went to Valparaiso to have a look around. I had been there before (see blog: jan. 2006) but it was the first time for Kathleen. We took the Metro and at the main square we met Tirone and Yasemin who we first met in Puerto Madryn, then in Ushuaia, then on the Navimag ferry and now in Valparaiso. (Hi you two if you are reading this:) . We had a very nice day walking the streets, taking the ascensores and finally ending up at the very interesting La sebastiana, the House of Pablo Neruda (1904-1973). The famous Chilean poet who is considered one of the greatest and most influential poets of the 20th century. Leaving Valparaiso it was time to plan the New Year celebrations. We found a nice Restaurant that had Parilla (Grilled meat). We ordered a parrilla for two, which is usually enough for 4 persons; and got a nice bottle of red wine to go with it. The staff brought us party hats and whistles and the night was well underway. Just before midnight we walked down to the coast, found a really good spot (together with about 20 million other people, and watched the most amazing fire work display I have ever seen. Fire works cannot be bought or used by the public and the show is controlled (the 23 minutes of it, which was the longest one so far). What they do is that they have about 20-25 "stations" off shore in a row in front of Valparaiso, Vina del Mar and the two neighboring towns. On all the stations they have the exact same display impeccably synchronized. And the fireworks are big, and I mean BIG!!
I thought I had seen huge fireworks in Iceland (some legal some illegal) but these were about 10 times bigger, and it made me realize that having it controlled really makes the experience much more enjoyable not to mention safer! I know many people in Iceland that would not agree with me (that includes you Palmi;) but this display just blew me away.
After the fireworks we headed back to the restaurant that now had turned into a nightclub with live music and dancing; and of course we were the first on the dance floor, well maybe not the first, but at least the first gringos. Returning back home to our hotel we opened a bottle of bubbly and continued the celebrations into the wee hours. The next day can be summarised in 2 words: TV & TAKEWAY!
Then suddenly it was time to leave. The New Year was here, and we had people to see and places to go; and as we headed to the bus station the next morning I was excited that we were going back to Argentina and to a place I was looking forward to seeing and tasting....Mendoza.

Photos.
Top: 10 past 8 in Vina Del Mar
middle: An ascensor or
Funicular in Valparaiso
Bottom: Happy New Year!



þriðjudagur, janúar 22, 2008

Temuco

After only a 3 hour bus trip to the City of Temuco, we found a hostel (a total dump) just next to the bus station and went looking for the information center. The plan was to do a tour to Conguillio national park next to the volcano Llaima, and then take the train to Santiago. This, however, was not possible. The tours had not really started yet because the high season had not really started yet and the only tour we could get on would have cost us the equivalent of a week in a five star hotel in Iceland. The train also for some strange reason did not start to run until the 20 of January. Rats! Well only one thing to to then: Leave! And that is what we did. That night we got on the night bus to Vina Del mar. Were we would spend New Year....Three days later the Volcan Llaima started erupting!


Next: New Year with a bang!